Dominican Republic – Paisaje gente y animales
Just returned to Santo Domingo after two weeks in the west of the country and along the haitian border collecting fossils. A very good trip but I am exhausted from digging and lugging samples, not to mention the crazy driving. Imagine driving rain in the night, nutters in toyotas loaded to overload with mangos at 100kph, huge potholes, no lines, no rules and add to that a small black horse gone crazy running between the traffic..
Amazing country. One of the highlights was a visit to the market in Elias Pina very close to the border with Haiti. Twice a week Haitians flood over the border legally to sell their wares (mostly knock off clothes) and buy food. Other interesting days were walking miles through beautiful yet indescribably painful cactus forest 50m below sea level in the Enriquillo basin in 42 degree heat looking for sacred sections of pliocene molluscan sediments.
The illegal charcoal burners from haiti, living in a sandy cave.
The goats… The mopeds like flies, the shear cliffs of salt, the cows with cactus spines in their eyes, the very friendly people, town square and drunks, Presidente ‘light’ after a hard day, deciding between Pica Pollo, Poll Rey or Huello a Pollo, the rice fields skirting the extinct volcanoes, the very dodgy motels hired by the hour, the armed-to-the-teeth inspections of the car at night only when driving away from Haiti.
The fossils – fantastically preserved reefs, beautiful marine snails with their colour preserved, plucked from the sediment like they were a day old.
I didnt take my trusty D700, but did have a point and shoot with me to grab a taste of Dominican life and the work we did. Two galleries can be seen here and here. Click on the ‘Slideshow’ link for the best view.
Cant wait to get back to Vancouver tomorrow to see Marina and Mila… But its only a week and then off to a conference in Cincinnati…
Scraggin!
La calle video
I created a short video of a messy collection of my Panamanian street photos. I think you can see it here. Let me know if you cant. My first attempt at an audio style photo gallery. I may end up doing more, and trying to make them a little more professional.
I bought some shoes today.
Update: Second attempt video can be seen here…
vancouver twists
A few photos of my first 3 weeks in this lovely town… Here
Gusano and other events

Here is Mila, in the Hospital de Niños, Panama, with a lump of gel taped to her head. A couple of weeks ago she went with the grandparents to our land near Trinidad. There a Botfly (Dermatobia hominis) attacked a mosquito, laying its eggs on the mosquitos body. the Mosquito then bit Mila on the head and an egg of the bot fly fell onto her skin. An egg also fell onto Milas grandmother who was carrying her at the time.
Of course, no one had any idea this was all going on except almighty mooley brain up there, of course.
The days passed and both larva dug themselves in to their new found homes, spreading tendrils of spines to secure their feeding position.
Last thursday, the bumps had grown, and their presence noted, and Grandmother and Mila went to the doctors. Grandmothers was removed first. They then decided to take Mila to the free hospital because of the great experience they have there of removing ugly parasites from children. We got there in the late afternoon.

In the surgery, I was told to leave. Mila started to scream !PAPA… Papa! They wrapped her up in a velcro sheet to stop her squirming. They stuck a lump of gel to her head to see if the evil bugger would suffocate and so start to retreat backwards out of the head whereupon it could snatched from my childs pure flesh. It didnt work. They then wrapped her in the velcro blanket of terror again and started to hack into her head. I sat outside. Hours passed, the screaming got worse. I paced up and down. Eventually at 10pm we were told they couldnt get it out and she would have to stay overnight and have an operation by a surgeon to remove it in the morning.
We made it up the ward in the early hours of the morning. Rows and rows of small babies, each one with a mother by its side, or what would be better described as a walking zombie.

Days in the hospital sitting 24 hours by your asthmatic baby who every 10 minutes starts to cough and choke, and you learn to sleep when you can in positions like this.
I didnt want to take too many photos, a shame because it would make a very interesting photo documentary. My concerns were with Mila who was just exhausted…

Poor lass. but soon she went to sleep and thankfully slept almost the whole night. I sat through the night, watching the mothers and their unusual worlds. Some could even sleep sitting upright. A sure sign of their experience in this matter. Soon it was 5am and role call. Mila was awakened but was in a uprisingly good mood.

She was taken down to surgery and in an hour they had taken an inch square chunk of flesh from the top of her head, in an attempt to search for the larvae. They didn’t find it. The surgeon supposed that it must have come out in the night.
With four stictches in her frankensteinian loaf of bread, Mila is doing alright, and is making a full recovery.
This is taken from ambergriscaye.com/pages/town/botfly2.html:
Human Bot Flies are not tiny flies. They’re pretty large and are nearly the size of bees. They have a yellowish head, huge bluish-black thorax or body, with orange legs and brown wings. These flies have an extremely powerful urge to reproduce. If they were to fly towards you, not only would you hear their annoying buzz and notice how big they are, but you also would immediately try squashing them with your shoe.
As you’ll soon find out, Bot Flies are not only cunning, they’re gifted with an IQ equal to Einstein. They know the impending doom that awaits them if they’re seen flying in your home, let alone near you. So what do they do? They fly out and seek a mosquito or tick. The lower their IQ count the better. The Bot Fly then holds the mosquito’s wings to prevent it from escaping. It then glues about 15 to 30 eggs at a time on the abdomen of the bloodsucking mosquito. When the Bot Fly lets go of the mosquito’s wings, the mosquito flies away carrying the Bot Fly eggs. The mosquito then prepares for landing on your warm body. As the mosquito sucks on your blood, your body heat begins to hatch the Bot Fly eggs on the abdomen of the mosquito. Once the eggs hatch and the mosquito takes off to find more blood to suck on, the tiny baby maggots burrow into your skin. It takes about 5 to 60 minutes for these baby maggots to burrow completely under your skin, either through a hole they make for themselves or through the bite hole made by the mosquito. You won’t even feel a thing, not yet anyway.
These baby maggots position themselves head down inside your skin with 2 oral hooks which they use to tear your tissue while they feed on you. The rows of curved spines along their body help anchor the maggots onto your skin. While the maggots feed on you they make a hole in your skin so they can breathe and excrete waste. For 6 to 8 weeks the maggots begin to grow big and strong, munching deliciously away on you. As they mature, you’ll begin to develop sores that itch like crazy. These itchy sores will then develop into egg-size painful boil-like sores that house the growing maggots and often ooze. You will then feel a stabbing painful feeling due to the maggots tearing off your tissue while feeding and from their spines irritating your tissue as they squirm around. You’ll be able to see and feel the maggots move and wiggle under your skin. How gross! Once the maggots grow fairly large, they will eat their way out of your skin where they fall to the ground and continue to pupate into adult flies. The entire horrible life cycle, from birth to adult, takes around 3 months.
The legendary explorer Colonel Percy Harrison Fawcett, who ventured into the unknown tropical wilderness of South America, wrote about these Human Bot Flies. The natives called them “Sututus.” Let us allow Colonel Fawcett to relate his encounter with the Sututus.
“Sututus were another trial for some of us: these are the grubs of a moth or mosquito which, after hatching from eggs left on the shirt, immediately bury themselves under the skin-usually on the back. The little brutes could not be extracted until the sore they made was “ripe,” and even then it was an art to get them, for on being molested they clung to the flesh with sharp mandibles. Tobacco juice sometimes helped, but killing them under the surface could bring on blood poisoning. Later on, the Indians undertook the cure in their own way. They would make a curious whistling noise with their tongues, and at once the grub’s head would issue from the blowhole. Then the Indian would give the sore a quick squeeze, and the invader was ejected.”
Modern science eh?
On another note, here are some various street pictures from the last week for your delight.




This is the new-look Clint on the back of a Diablo Rojo…

Dont forget, if in Panama tonight come along at 7pm to Manolo Caracol..

Contradictions in the street
I find panama to be a land of contrasts. Here’s some attempts at trying to capture that on a digital sensor…
Manolo Carocol
The following photos are for an upcoming exhibition in a restaurant in Casco Viejo, the old colonial part of Panama. I am hoping to have them printed around 1m in size, and present them unframed. Lets see how the printer deals with the colours.
If in Panama next tuesday (3rd) please come along to Manolo Carocol at 7pm for bit of that sweet monkey juice…
Vancouver
In just ten days Marina leaves Panama to live in Vancouver. She is to start a 2 year fellowship in molecular pathology. She will not be using the Hadron collider in case you were wondering. The plan is for her to leave at christmas and then in mid March I will skip up there with Mila, stay for a while and then return without Mila, wait 6 months and bring Mila back to Panama.
Looking after Mila on my own is a little daunting, and I hope all will be well. I know I can keep her entertained – that shouldn’t be a problem. But what will happen when she needs that special lovin’ ‘n’ patience . Will I be able to do it?
But more worrying than that is not seeing her afterwards. It seems to be all or nothing.
We will miss you monkey mother…

This next photo is of the rain on the windshield of my volkswagen waiting in the traffic.
It’s like the tears of a man in the traffic of life.
But not much…. Actually, more like the eye drops of a baby scuttle-burger rat falling on the glasses of a gypsy boy who sits on the tarpaulin fence at the edge of a fair ground in the Sahara desert somewhat disgruntled about his fathers decision to not stop over for even one night in Sebha where all the young kids have fun…

The camera revolution
Recently the major camera manufacturers have made amazing advances in the quality of digital photography. Its now possible to take photos undreamt of with film, especially obvious in low light conditions. And news photography is the first to catch on. Here are just two photos I saw on the Guardian news website this morning that demonstrate the amazing new technology.
The third photo is of a rescue operation in New zealand of two mountaineers in new zealand, one of which died on the mountain after being trapped for six days. I just put it in coz its a really amazing photo.



Chiste de mi suegro – ‘ta bueno
Científicos Norteamericanos excavaron 50 metros bajo tierra y descubrieron pequeños hilos de cobre. Después de estudiar esos trozos de hilo por mucho tiempo, los Norteamericanos llegaron a la conclusión de que los antiguos Americanos tenían una red nacional de teléfono hace ya 2,500 años.
Por supuesto, a los Rusos no le pareció nada del otro mundo. Le pidieron a sus propios científicos que excavaran más hondo. A 100 metros bajo tierra encontraron pequeños hilos de cristal que, según ellos, formaban parte del sistema de fibra óptica nacional que tenían los antiguos Rusos hace 3,500 años.
Los Panameños, por supuesto, no se dejaron impresionar. Los Científicos Panameños excavaron 150 metros bajo tierra y no encontraron nada, excavaron a 200 metros y aun nada; entonces excavaron hasta 250 metros y total que no encontraron ni un carajo de hilos… ni de cobre, ni de cristal, ni de ninguna M! Entonces llegaron a la conclusión (y con toda razón) que los Kunas, Chocoes y Guaymíes, hace más de 5,000 años, …. ya utilizaban CONEXIÓN INALÁMBRICA (WI-FI) !!!!
¡¡¡ Viva Panamá COÑO !!!
Scruddle
I won a photography competition with this photo of my boss. Here is the associated text.
In the 1980’s Smithsonian scientist Jeremy Jackson studied the vibrant marine life in Jamaica, but just twenty years later the seas are devastated by overshing. Returning to Jamaica, Jeremy rests on a fossil reef that gives scientists a baseline to understand what happened and the opportunity to reminisce of a healthier Caribbean.
I managed to recover some of the lost posts, but I lost the comments…
Hello to Nikkis mum!
Mila’s birthday, ONE and Kakus
On facebook I have uploaded some photos of Milas first Birthday party. have a look here. She was a bit overwhelmed and seemed to enjoy it more when there were fewer people. It was a Mexican theme, with piñata and hats.
Mila always does a turd in the morning just after getting up. We have been trying to get her potty trained and this morning we called her to try ‘kakus’ in the potty. She sat down but didnt produce, got up, walked around, sat down again and nothing came out. This went on, until eventually we gave up, but it must have set something in motion as she came up to the bed and squeezed one off. Then turned round all smiley and squeezed another one out on the floor, and then another.. As she walked she would stop, squeeze her face up and curl one off again. This went on until she stood in it.
Not as bad as the time when…. actualy I will leave that one to your imagination, just give you hints of hands, clothes, face, floor and bathtub smeered in rankin’ brown mush, and me, trying not to hurl pushing lumps of the stuff down the sink hole where it all got jammed in…. oooops, sorry!
Remember me?
Not my videos but nice to see the cultural Kuna dance. While we were on the boat we had a little bash one evening on the bow, trying to emulate the style. I did a pretty good job given the amount of gin and salt water in my system.
Now compare to these:
Back on land…
The land sways slightly after being on a boat for so long. That is why sailors walk with a funny stride, nothing at all to do with the stocking up of rum in port.
We didnt find El Dorado in terms of fossils, but we did find some pretty spectacular geology that will all help nicely with our interpretations of the formation of the Isthmus of Panama. And we did find oro…!
I have put together a gallery of photos. With so little time to spare these are the best way to get across what’s going on. There are many tales to tell, like the dead motor and the zodiac deflating in the sea, the near smash on top of a reef, and listening to the Kuna tales of ancient ecological destruction and mysterious mermaids. These will have to wait.
You can see the gallery by clicking here. Be warned, there are some seventy eight photos.
And for those of a different persuasion I made a little gallery of Mila. She is now 10 months old and has taken three steps by herself. She has a favourite toy called Capitan Jack, says ‘Kan’ for most things she wants, she tries to copy a song about small feet, and wont let anyone else carry her lunch box to nursery.
You can see her here.
Kuna Yala Bonanza
This sunday I leave for a long-planned expedition into the Kuna Yala - the San Blas islands of Panama. This region is a sort of last frontier for paleontology in the Caribbean. No paleontologists has really explored the coast for fossil outcrops. I have funding from SENACYT and we are traversing the canal in the R/V Urraca - the Smithsonian’s boat to depart into the Caribbean and sail down towards the border of Colombia for 25 days, stopping along the way and exploring the coastal sections and walking in land up the rivers looking for outcrops. The fact that nobody knows anything of the geology means that it is very exciting as it will all be entirely new, but it also means that we could end up finding nothing at all. This is something unheard of in this day and age of funding bodies donating money only to projects they know will produce results. A Victorian explorer rambling round the Caribbean is how I feel. Go Discover and Return with Bounty and I will Knight you Sir Eejit, she said as she slung the bottle of Rum against the bow.
Not to say its going to be all peaches, dried apricots and soft comfort cuddles. There’s the rain of course, and there’s the unpredictable sea. Walking miles through snake infested jungle day in day out. A bite from a Fer de Lance and we are days from a decent hospital. Then there is the issue of security. It is well known that the region is used for drug runners in Pangas rapidas – small boats with four 200HP engines strapped to the back. And then there’s FARC’s activities near the border with Colombia. More than any of these though is the problem of living in a crowded boat with a bunch of scientists for four weeks.
I hope that with my brand new D700 camera I will have lots of photos to show when I return.
I will miss MIla the Squeela a lot. I try not to think too much about it. Although I have booked a break in the cruise – in the middle I will fly back to be with the family for two days before rejoining the boat.
Wish me luck…
Benn

“Many things in life are a moment of pleasure and a lifetime of embarrassment…
But a photograph is a moment of embarrassment and a lifetime of pleasure”
Tony Benn.
Tarantula
Last night I prepared myself to make the weekly watercress and bean soup which gets frozen in jars for Mila. Two big bunches of delicious watercress from our local super – Riba Smith. Fondling the sharp and spicy leaves, I give them all a good wash, separating out their entangled stems with gay abandon. Suddenly I find a grey looking ball, about 2cm across, nestled loosely in the leaves. I pick it up and give it a light squeeze. Its consistency is very strange, something I have never felt in my life before. I roll it around between my fingers and then give a quick glance at where it lay. I do a double take. What the hell is that! I look closely and see two very hairy legs, a pair of cm-long fangs and eight eyes looking back at me. A 10cm tarantula. And then I realise, that in my hand I am squeezing her nest.
I place the nest gently back next to her. Turn around and breath slowly….
Needless to say, we had carrot soup instead.
Scraggin’
I haven’t given anyone a good scraggin’ for ages….
Mila has been ill with a fever, and that means lots of crying and walking around with the monkey in the middle of the night. It also means she has escaped a good scraggin’ for some time now. Marina is no good scrag material. Since Mila came into the world of monkeys, Marina doesn’t even know how to be scragged. So, I decided to scrag my blogger and move over to WordPress. I haven’t been able to move the comments over so if you would all please go back and fill in what you wrote that would be very useful.
Let’s see how it works out over here. I hope all the links work. I’m sure some photos wont. Any comments you have please let me know.
Just to try, here is a recent photo from my David Hasselhoff. Getting this photo was not easy… In fact him and his mates wanted to give me a good scraggin’.

A bubble or two
Listen here…
by Ivor Cutler.
and some photos….


on th beach

in the volkswagen

with Walton on the farm

Walton by himself (with hat)

These two photos taken by Walton…

Two Months and into the sea

Yesterday was Milas 2 month birthday. She cried a lot in the car as we drove into the country to get signatures of neighbours of our new land in Trinidad to confirm that they agree with the titling agreement and the borders we have made. One of our neighbours is an old Indian man that used to ‘own’ the whole area. It was a struggle getting him to mark X on the dotted line. He must have sold off bits here and there over the years, but nobody ever titled that land so no real records existed. I wonder what his ancestors must think about it all. We went to Osvaldos house – a friend of the family – who lives in the area. He is going to be in charge of cleaning up the land, cutting back the wild bush ready for planting native and fruit trees when the rains return in April, and making a nice path to get into the land without wrestling with a mud bath. By the river is a large rounded rock of basalt 4 metres high which drops sheer into a deep pool perfect for swimming. We are going to clear the top of brush and make a nice little platform for picnics. The view is lovely along a bend in the river and just before an island where the river splits into two, large Ringed Kingfishers scooting round the corner and monkeys in the trees should make for a nice location. There are already hundreds of orange, mandarine and lime trees, and we will add to them with guava, guanabana, mango, banana (both for the monkeys), maracuya, cashew fruit, and many more.
At the beach Mila livened up considerably, amazed by all the new sounds and sights of the sea and sand and setting sun… She didn’t know which way to look. I stuck her feet in the sand and watched her face as the waves of the Pacific washed her legs for the first time.



What a funny belly she has.
The last two months have been amazing, difficult at times, but very rewarding. The changes in all of us are what makes my head spin. Mila is wonderful. Starting to gurgle and smile, she cries a lot but we are blessed with her sleeping many nights right through.
Despite all its wonderfulness, fatherhood, to be honest, isn’t that much of a shock though. You wonder what the hell you used to do with your time before she was born, you pull yourself together more quickly in times of distress, you put life into perspective, and most of all you feel a deep instinct of care and future responsibility.
Some random pictures for your delight… Sorry for lack of update. I promise to try and get back into it…




The sign is on the road up into the hills were our land is. It reads “Traditional Slaughter , in the garden of [something] … 20th Jan 2008…. Disco… Cock fights, and a music band. Dont miss it”. The lady behind is trying get a signal on her mobile phone…






































